2012 September 19
Milan Spring 2013: Gucci, Alberta Ferretti
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When Frida Giannini delves into the Gucci archives, anything can happen—but it's safe to say the results will recall la dolce vita of some sort. For Spring, Giannini looked back to that golden era of the late 1960s, where long tunics, oodles of ruffles, and major statement jewels were de rigeur. Are you ready for a fuscia pantsuit? How about a palm-print pajama pant? Cobalt, turquoise, chartreuse, black and white were the key players here, with a python minidress thrown in for good measure. A particularly intricate set of coral necklaces and earrings, worn together and offset against all-white looks, were among the most dazzling discoveries.
In such a hard-edged season, Ferretti's lightlanded approach feels especially welcome. Her ethereal, ocean-inspired Spring collection was an amalgamation of what this designer does best—beautiful draping, intricate and inspired beadwork, and a neutral color palette that manages to sing. Punctuated by shots of periwinkle, in a satin pant and draped trompe l'oeil tank, and offset by shades of dark teal and turquoise, the watery effect was anything but watered down. Case in point? A floor-length, v-neck gown made of different patched-together pieces of blue lace, atop green chiffon. A mermaid-esque gown with a fishing net motif was among the most interesting red-carpet looks we've seen so far, but it was Ferretti's final look—a bodice embroidered in kelp, with a liquid skirt—that incorporated the entire concept.