2012 September 18
London Spring 2013: Roksanda Ilincic, Meadham Kirchhoff
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(LONDON) Roksanda Ilincic
It was an arty scene in the Savoy ballroom this morning at Roksanda Ilincic. The mood? Groovy power dressing by way of femmed-up seventies frocks and a handful of polished, high-waisted trousers matched with collared blouses and floppy berets. Amidst the calculated and color-blocked lineup, it was easy to spot New Realism painter and sculptor Niki de Saint Phalle (an early point of inspiration) in the poppy designs, swirling around the body just as they would on one of her monumental Nana statues. Then there were glimpses of abstract painter Josef Albers, who was subtly referenced in Ilincic's color palette brimming with tones of violet, mustard, raspberry, cobalt, and vermillion. A nod to Albers' infamous "Homage to the Squares," perhaps? Luxe loungewear also made a showing this season with jersey maxis and cozy comfy sweater sets. All were completed with an Aldo Rise collab of assorted t-strap heels.
Although their Spring 2013 show was dubbed "A Cautionary Tale," Edward Meadham and Benjamin Kirchhoff threw caution to the wind, sending out a parade of dollies swathed in flouncy dresses detailed with sequins, bows, ruffles, feathers, you name it. One by one, leggy mods (some nibbling away at sugary sweet cupcakes) bounded out in fantastical getups reminiscent of Marie Antoinette on acid or Downton Abbey gone rogue. Searching for a Mickey Mouse tee coupled with a Cinderella skirt and lacy knee-highs? Who isn't? How about a canary yellow lace onesie? Always wanted one of those! The costume-y collection read whimsy from top to toe. Still, there were retail ready separates waiting to be scooped up. We'll take the patterned peplum blazers with bowtie closures and those Victorian over-the-knee boots, s'il vous plaît.