2012 June 7

Resort 2013: Lanvin, Organic by John Patrick

Lanvin Resort 2013 Lanvin Resort 2013
Photo courtesy Lanvin.
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(NEW YORK) Lanvin
"There's something very right about elastic," mused Alber Elbaz to an intimate crowd of eds perched just so during an intimate Lanvin presentation at Milk Studios. Out the models came, one by one, as Elbaz explained the ruffle effect of a colorblocked gown or the construction of fit 'n' flare skirt suits featuring invisible darts on top and a peplum hem on bottom. (The structured stripe varieties were a major hit with the back row.) But first, let's get comfy. "There's no skinny picture of me, so I love pajamas!" he said as five models opened the show in vibrant track suits-cum-PJs with slouchy elastic bottoms and airy camisole toppers, paired with wide-brimmed visors and stackable bangles. Just in case you didn't get the memo: Miami beach is back in a big way, and at chez Lanvin that means "flowers and shine and plastic." Hence the metallic foil cotton pantsuit, which channeled South Beach at its finest. But it was the colorful assortment of arm candy that created the biggest stir. "I heard it was a big bag season," explained the designer. "So I did a lot of bags!" Post-presentation, the elevator was abuzz with positive reviews. "You know, that collection was just so playful and fun. I miss fun fashion," said an anonymous guest. "Oh, is fashion supposed to be fun?" joked her cohort. "Who knew?"

Organic by John Patrick
Any collection that starts off with inspiration culled from Edit Deak, the co-founder of the seventies newsprint periodical Art-Rite, and the comeback of the paper 'zine is already winning with Team Daily. This season, John Patrick nodded to the high priestess of the art world with a poppy collection that leaned on his signature calling cards while injecting an emphasis on industrial tailoring. To wit, leather kick pleat skirts and nineties-ish smocked dresses cut from black and white artisanal daisy lace were balanced with oversized ocean blue button downs, marigold tees, and workwear jumpsuits. The unexpected highlight came in the form of five menswear looks that made a quiet debut with hooded reefer jackets and tailored nylon suit shorts.