2012 February 24
Milan Fall 2012: Fendi, Etro, Moschino, Just Cavalli
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Mix master Karl Lagerfeld uses the Fendi runway as a venue for experimentation—how luxe can you go? The fur business will remain core, but Lagerfeld continues to reinvent what, exactly, that means. For Fall, it's antelope, croc, sheared mink, a bit of pony, and lambskin, often worn, hybrid-ized, in a part wool or half-leather coat. Lagerfeld's girls tend to communicate a warrior vibe—blame it on the extra-wide, almost cartoonish belts—but Silvia Fendi's handbags coax this transcendent goddess back to the city streets. For Fall, her statement bag was an ultra-slim iPad case with a formed handle. This is all the briefcase you need, n'est-ce pas?
Seventies-style chic at its best—which is to say, future-oriented. Etro is known for the prints so rigorously executed that they've applied an entirely new concept of luxury to the bohemian aesthetic, and for Fall, they were applied sparingly, but with great effect. An orange and red paisely coat, for example, with noir lapels, worn over lace-trimmed black leather tights, and a fierce, skintight pencil skirt, worn with a prim black jacket trimmed in chartreuse fur. A series of black evening dresses with cutout or transprarent panels will prove especially appealing on the tapis rouge.
To the sounds of peppy drums, Rossella Jardini unveiled a military-chic parade of brights, replete with her signature cowgirl hats. Adieu, maxi lengths—chez Moschino, the mini is back in full force, preferably quilted and in leather. Royal blue, red, and black and white, topped off with the requisite dose of gold bling, showed up in swingy, statement-button coats, leathered jackets, and ruffled tutto. The last look, an all-over ruffled cocktail dress in a hyped-up shade of rose, summarized Jardini's chronic optimism.
The Milan runways are trending towards minimal, and Roberto Cavalli's effort for his main line's younger sister conveyed the sentiment. Looks were generally leaner, with a more body-con silhouette and a focus on separates (cropped emerald trousers) and knits (a chunky same-color sweater). Striped pants, for both sexes, were key, as was patent, used winningly in a loose-fit grey pant. Ditto on the black-and-white trend, especially in stripes. The flyaway hems and peasant blouses will be as popular as ever, but the streamlined shifts add an ultramodern element to the mix.