2012 February 13
Fall 2012: Zac Posen, DKNY, Imitation, Simon Spurr
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(NEW YORK) Zac Posen
"Lately, I've been obsessed with finding images of the Duchess of Windsor when she was in Asia, before she went to England," Zac Posen told The Daily following his ultra-opulent showing at Lincoln Center's David Koch Theatre. Dita Von Teese, Kate Mara, and Leigh Lezark took their rightful seats at the front of the line despite a frenzy of flashbulbs and watched as Posen sent down a troupe of mods in Japanese floral jacquard peplum dresses accented with origami detailing, jewel-toned skirt suits, and his perennial favorite, the corseted, body-hugging fishtail gown, cinched at the waist with printed obi-like belts.
In the fifties and sixties, the Beat Generation's poetic rebellion came in the form of cult classics like Jack Kerouac's On the Road and Gregory Corso's Bomb. For DKNY circa Fall 2012, "poetic rebellion" emerged in Donna Karan's recent runway collection of the same name, inspired by said counterculture phenoms. But don't expect an offering raging against the Man. After all, Karan built a global empire appealing to the masses so New York black workwear for the young professional—leather and wool overcoats, belted puffers, creased front wool trousers, and office suiting with boxy jackets and ruffle hem skirts—was a major must. All-over floral blue pantsuits, sassy black and white animal print dresses, and shearling aviator mock collars added a dose of indie spice to the mix that would have Ginsberg howling with joy.
Buddakan's Chelsea resto transformed into a buzzy fashion den yesterday afternoon as Imitation hosted a whimsical presentation downstairs with 25 red-lipped models, two creative design partners, and one magic-wielding entertainer. Tara Subkoff's seasonal vintage-inspired élan was reimagined with the help of collaborators Amber Doyle and Jake Mueser of downtown bespoke boutique Doyle + Mueser, who initially teamed up last season to throw a mock wedding, outfitting the entire ceremonial party in the custom-made collab. This time, menswear tailoring showed face in elongated pinstripe blazer-dresses, cold weather capes, and one-shouldered work shirts alongside Subkoff's slinky retro frocks summoned from the seventies influences of Yves Saint Laurent and Thierry Mugler.
Last year, Spurr was nominated in the best men's wear category for a CFDA, and he proved this was no fluke. His collection shown at Milk on Sunday was intended to push the boundaries of sartorial tailoring. The English designer was inspired by the men in Robert Frank's photographs of London, but as he told The Daily, "We wanted to created that mood and ambience, but move it forward to a modern world, a distinguished gentleman." Success? Indeed! His aesthetic makes no apologizes for culling inspiration from his own English upbringing, but this Hedi Slimane, Calvin and Ralph vet, is turning into his own man. He's the Spurr of the moment.