Calvin Klein Collection
2011 September 15
Spring 2012: Calvin Klein Collection
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(NEW YORK) Calvin Klein Collection
Another hit parade from Francisco Costa. When everyone else in New York is showing neon, florals, and other assorted trickery, one can count on Costa to provide the ultimate palate (and palette) cleansing. First things first: his "nude," which was tinged with coral and radiated warmth and life. And then there was "gardenia," a blanched-out lemon that hasn't been seen on a runway in recent memory. Petal, a dusty lavender, and lacquer, a reflective shade of black, rounded out the color story. And the clothes were just as quietly precise. Slipdressing was a focus, with long, floor-grazing pieces in tulle, silk crepe, and double faced silk a Costian riff on the form. Transparency was another key concept, as open backs mix and mingle with open shoulders and peekaboo paneling. The jackets, especially a shimmering collarless style jacket in gardenia: solid gold, while Costa's Spring skirt (knee length with draping in the front, another novelty) is a must-buy for women of any age and station. Blissfully minimal, yet refreshing to the max.