2011 February 21
London Fall 2011: Basso & Brooke, Peter Pilotto, Acne, Antonio Berardi
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(LONDON) Basso & Brooke
A plethora of patterns took over Bruno Basso and Christopher Brooke's fall presentation this weekend. As expected, the theatrical design duo splashed colorful National Geographic prints over long sleeve shifts and pantsuits, streamlined evening coats, and floor-grazing gowns. Desert sunset hues stood beside Icelandic white and blue or aquatic green taking us on a journey into the wild.
Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos, the talented team behind the Peter Pilotto label, didn't travel far for fall's revolutionary theme. The designers looked to the recent protests in London and Paris, translating their inspiration into silk tunics and dresses slashed at the bodice or print on print layering pieces eerily reminiscent of old timey warrior wear. Long wool overcoats grounded the silky separates in white, black, and red. The color palette followed suit opening with the classic color trio and later morphing into crisscross patterns and geometric prints in pale yellows, blues, and chartreuse.
Laid-back luxe was on Jonny Johansson's mind this season. Acne's creative director whipped up a casual collection apropos his design team with the signature androgynous spin. Leather got reworked into streetwise rose vests, olive and blueberry cropped pants and buckled cognac minis while denim was reimagined in jumpers and slouchy jackets. Among the winners: a pair of delicious wide-leg mustard velvet trousers stole the show as did the patchwork leather and metallic high-waters coupled with a low-key charcoal sweatshirt.
The technical mastery of Antonio Berardi's eveningwear took an unexpected turn for fall. The designer's usual uptown debutante traveled downtown in perforated minis with exaggerated folds, stovepipe trousers, and a few key knits for added texture. Kudos went to Berardi's repertoire of standout coats. Some flaunted shearling. Others featured studs on black capes or sharp shaped lapels on white or gray wool overcoats. The "Berardi" girl was still lurking in the shadows of casual concoctions; elegant red, navy, and lime sequined gowns paraded next to sassier lace see-through numbers leaving us with a taste of the familiar.