2010 September 20

Runway Reviews: Topshop Unique, Osman, House of Holland

Topshop Unique Spring 2011 Topshop Unique Spring 2011
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(LONDON) Topshop Unique
To be fair, the high-street behemoth better have plenty of new up its sleeve; with near-daily deliveries, the brand’s customers don’t want a limited selection. The answer? Everything from psychedelic ‘70s jumpsuits in a billowing smoke print to clean white minifrocks to unicorn prints made appearances, all in over-the-top styling (courtesy of Katie Grand and every color under the rainbow. Pegasus, cobwebs, macramé, disco, showgirls—a read-through of the brand’s substantial show notes lists them all. It was a little exhausting, to be sure, but that doesn’t mean that the girls won’t snatch it all up as soon as it hits sales floors. Accessories were particularly interesting—while sky-high Lucite wedges with straps, tassels, bits and bobs might be toned down a touch pre-retail, the generously fringed handbags (often worn more than one at a time) will surely fly off the floors.

Osman Yousefzada has become one of LFW’s designers to watch, and this season, he presented one of his strongest collections to date. Elegant, flattering, and archetectural is always the key with Osman, but in the past his quest for the entirely unadorned has left attendees wanting, well, a little more something. For spring, he gave us color—khaki and navy, but also bright neon yellow, lime green, and pink—and texture—patent leather, crisp cotton, and floaty silks—all in a coherent, easy collection that was true to Yousefzada’s less-is more style. Winning looks included a one-shoulder lemon yellow jersey top with a khaki patent leather pleated skirt that hit below the knee, as well as perfect navy trousers, and sharp little dresses with almost a Roland Mouret-esque sensibility.

House of Holland
For a designer best known for tees reading “Do Me In The Park Marc,” Henry Holland’s Spring 2011 collection was a more grown-up effort. Opening with a great little gold knife-pleated leather skirt and a blazer in an oversized tropical leaf print, it was almost 
uncharacteristically wearable, continuing with flared print pants and a safari-ish shirtdress. Not to worry, lovers of Holland’s tongue-in-cheek fashions: colored fringe adorned most everything, a metallic star print was perfectly kitschy, and the collection finished with gold dresses that would put a disco ball to shame. In other words? Henry-philes are happy, and everyone else is, too.