Alice + Olivia
2010 September 15
Runway Reviews: Marc by Marc Jacobs, Alice + Olivia, Tibi, Rosa Cha
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(NEW YORK) MARC BY MARC JACOBS
Marc Jacobs is incredibly skilled at taking his distinct point of view each season and translating it to a nearly universal audience. Monday night, Jacobs showed a louche, '70s-inspired collection for his main line, and on Tuesday, he followed with a more wearable, younger, and more affordable take for Marc by Marc Jacobs. In bright poppy, oranges, and yellows, Jacobs showed halter dresses (nearly all in the mid-calf length ubiquitous on the runways this season), plenty of jumpsuits and rompers (no, they aren’t going away), and preppy, military-style blouses paired with shorts. Everything had a kind of Sunday-best sweetness that will appeal to Marc’s younger customers. As always, accessories will be wildly successful; this season, wedges both sky-high and sturdy were a fun offering.
ALICE & OLIVIA
It’s quite obvious that Stacey Bendet loves to shop vintage. Inspired by the notion of “timeless travel,” Alice & Olivia’s Spring 2011 collection was an eclectic array of sparkly shrugs, prom-like organza cocktail dresses, and mixed-up prints, feathers, and beading resembling finds from a vintage store. Standouts were the feather miniskirt with a '20s flapper-esque scalloped top, long hippie chiffon sundresses, striped charmeuse wide legged pants, and '50s-inspired chintz strapless cocktail dresses with gathered bodices and a-line skirts. “There’s a sort of romantic element and a sort of elegance and timelessness to each piece,” said Bendet.
Classic sportswear was on the Spring 2011 menu for Amy Smilovic at Tibi. Her line—a favorite on contemporary sales floors around the United States and Japan—is less about being directional and more about being practical, accessible, and adorable; Smilovic hit the nail on the head. An open-crochet sweaterdress tapped into the current knitwear trend, black and white leopard print separates felt fresh and sweet, and there were plenty of frocks to choose from, whether you’re looking for a circle-skirted version with laser-cut flower appliqués or a cream-colored gown with beaded details. It was hard not to be happy while watching Tibi’s runway show—a sentiment that will surely carry over to shoppers.
Known for its sexy bikinis, this season Rosa Cha has expanded its assortment to create innerwear as outerwear with a mix of lingerie-inspired and constructed pieces that can be worn on the street as well as the beach. A new silhouette that Rosa Cha introduced this season was the Perfecto jacket, a neoprene motorcycle-inspired jacket embellished with a zipper and collar that can be worn over designer Alexandre Herchcovitch's stunning and sensual pieces. True to the brand's Brazilian roots and the love of the women’s body, each piece was made with exposed seams and boning to emphasize the curves of the body and used a colorful green and yellow tropical print of Brazil’s native snake plant, which Brazilians believe to bring good luck and protect against evil.