2010 September 14

Marc-iest Marc: Better Than Ever

Marc Jacobs Spring 2011 Marc Jacobs Spring 2011
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(NEW YORK) It wasn't the Marc show we've come to expect---you know, the one where everyone from a GMM at Bloomingdale's to the New Yorker's dubious profilee Tavi Gevinson is seated front row. Entering into the Armory, the first surprise was Lorenzo Martone. His client Alessandra Ambrosio walked in the show, but still. Next up: a Lagerfeld-like set, metallic and imposing, spherical, not entirely unlike the ones he uses regularly at Chanel Couture. This one faintly resembled a nuclear reactor, and it was concocted by Stefan Beckman. There were three tiers of spacious seating, and a Marc Jacobs BANG Worldwide t-shirt was neatly tucked into each folder of show notes.

But who cares about any accoutrements when 54 chills-inducing looks are there to be admired, digested, committed to memory, and eventually, invoked when concepting shoots, doing one's makeup, getting dressed? A year ago, he showed Aladdin pants. It's not that fashionettes didn't buy them on sale on Mercer---you did, trust me---it's just that his last few collections (Fall 2010 excepted) have taken some time to work their charm. Not so with Spring 2011. Which even marginal Marc fan doesn't want it all, and now? Rachel Zoe could barely contain herself as Robert Duffy stood backstage, stoic, doing a few token interviews and looking fully in-charge. The pitch-perfect clothes, coupled with the beauty of Francois Nars and Guido, resulted in runway shots infinitely more gorgeous than most covers on today's newsstand. Who needs Carrie Underwood when you have Anna Selezneva in a plum straw brim?

The color story---dusty petal, mustard, raisin, butter, brick, tangerine---will be repurposed on many contemporary floors next spring and beyond. But it's the gauze halters, high-waisted satin trousers and trenches, and zigzag knits that feel most sumptuous. Even a white knit jacket and pants, all jazzed up with gold and silver sequins, could take the air right out a room. You know you'll have to wait for February deliveries, but if you need to warm up your discount card, Fall's not a bad place to start.