2010 September 13
Runway Reviews: Thakoon, Preen, Elise Øverland, Y-3
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(NEW YORK) THAKOON
It may have been raining outside the Pace Gallery in Chelsea where Thakoon Panichgul presented his Spring 2010 collection, but it was nothing but spring inside. "I wanted it to look freshly laundered," said Panichgul pre-show. "There's a lot of white, a lot of blue; it's very fresh and very feminine." Indeed, the show opened with bright white poplin, twill, eyelet, and chiffon, fashioned into little bloomer-style shorts and jackets both tailored (a double-breasted blazer with a flared pant was fresh) and deconstructed (on one jacket, it was as though the peplum had come undone from the jacket and breezed behind). Panichgul played with lingerie themes, which lent a healthy dose of femininity; several dresses had the simplicity of a ‘90s-era slip dress, and there was enough sheer that retailers ought start thinking now about how they're going to tweak. The prints that have become Thakoon's signature may have been limited to a subtle blue and white stripe and a pale blue floral "wallpaper" print, but a gorgeously luxe python that appeared as a simple sheath dress, pencil skirt, and cardigan jacket will step in to fill the void happily.
Inspired by their travels in North Africa and Egypt, the design duo behind Preen, Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi, translated the breathtaking beauty and landscape into their Spring 2011 collection from the colors to the patterns. The silhouettes were structured with a neoprene stiffness with tailored cropped jackets paired with skinny pants, full A-line box pleat skirts and mini shift dresses. Flowy chiffon dresses and blouses featured a Moroccan mosaic print and were balanced with a structured cummerbund or a trouser-inspired waistband. To balance the structured looks, hair was loose and undone, with sweeping bangs à la Jane Birkin in the '60s. According to Thronton and Bregazzi, the Preen woman is “a modern woman, who wants to be a little edgy, chic, sexy, she’s strong competitive, cool, but also has a frivolous playful side, she doesn’t take things too seriously.”
Elise Øverland has a lot going for her: she has the right friends, a loyal art following, and a powerful private customer base. So it was nice to see Norwegian favorite give her attractive front row what they were hoping for: a focused, polished collection. The strength of her Spring effort didn't just lie in the cropped leather jackets. Øverland showed strong black lace numbers, cropped pants, and an array of cool chartreuse pieces.
Yohji Yamamoto's predominantly monochromatic collection drew inspiration from nearly three decades of music genres, from the '60s leather looks to the '80s punk, goth and indie rock styles. Setting the mood of the show was a live performance by British rock band The Duke Spirit. Models had a very Siouxsie Soux goth/sexy rocker chick style with frizzed hair and black lipstick and sported backless tops draped in chains and beads paired with flared bell bottoms. For men, he showed motorcycle vests as well as velour panne velvet slouchy jackets in ochre, paying ode to Janis Joplin as well as tailored jackets influenced by the style of the King- Elvis Presley. Yohji wouldn’t be Yojhi if he didn’t have a touch of irreverence, and for this he collaborated with Yoko Ono for for a selection of coats and T-shirts printed with her text, like “Open Your Eyes, Open Your Door, Open Your Legs, Open Your Sides, Open Your Heart, Open Your Mouth.”