2010 July 6

Runway Reviews: Couture Fall 2010

Dior Couture 2010 Dior Couture 2010
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(PARIS) Christian Dior
After a week’s worth of sunshine and humidity in Paris, the clouds darkened minutes before the start of Dior’s couture show. But it never really rained. In fact, as the models confidently popped onto the runway in hallucinating colors and tantalizing textures, the gray clouds suddenly dispersed. Of course, John Galliano couldn’t have asked for a better experience at the Rodin museum. “I wanted to bring a bold new bloom into the salon,” he explained. Sure enough, this was accomplished with a floral inspiration that was anything but mundane. His garden-variety goddesses, led by Karlie Kloss, seduced the Parisian audience with bold patches of violet, yellow, and pink. They twirled in hand-painted organza dresses, petal inspired skirts, and richly embroidered jackets. They conquered the colossal taffeta creations and warm mohair coats. Awe-struck first time couture invitee Jared Leto perhaps put it best. “This was art, showcased by an artist, in an art institution,” he raved. “And we’re damn lucky to witness it.”

Maison Martin Margiela
After decades of blessing and crashing fashion shows, James Goldstein (AKA the alligator-toting cowboy) missed perhaps the most important presentation of his lifetime. House of Margiela’s tiny 10-look “Artisanal” showing paid tribute to the departing designer’s fascination with recycling of garments and textures and came up with pieces that would make any leather-lusting cowboy (or a couture-loving cowgirl) proud. And in fact, this effort was fantastic, especially when compared with the house's dull and uneven Fall 2010 RTW show. Some of the standouts included a fascinating clutch jacket composed of every skin in the Amazon, a beautiful fringed balero, a sexy leather-striped cat suit, and perhaps the best women’s biker jacket we’ve seen in ages. The couture presentation was certainly a very healthy step forward for the studio as it evolves in the wake of Martin Margiela's retirement.