2010 March 9

Runway Reviews: YSL, Stella McCartney

Yves Saint Laurent, Fall 2010 Yves Saint Laurent, Fall 2010
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Get thee to a nunnery? Stefano Pilati's Fall collection for YSL was rife with religious imagery, from waist-grazing pendants to yoke blouses to scores of black capes. Of course, this is no medieval place of worship, but rather a futuristic take on this particular aesthetic, as evidenced in PVC coverings of capes. These clothes are immune from the elements--to say nothing of the trends like fur, animal print, and color that other designers have been promoting for Fall. Granted, there was a bit of seventies nostalgia, as evidenced in high-waisted wide-leg pants and prim midlength dresses. The final foursome of Yves-era brights--emerald, fuschia, purple and marigold--will offer something to those angsting for some cocktail. On the accessory front, the fashion world waits for a new Muse (bag), but the sexy pumps in cerulean and black with fur seams will work wonders for next season.

Stella McCartney
Why did an alleged voicemail recording of Tiger Woods' missive to a so-called mistress start the Stella McCartney show? The front row may wonder, but unlike Woods, McCartney need not plea for redemption. Her Fall collection was full of toned-down basics, beginning with a charcoal jacket avec a notched lapel. McCartney can often indulge her romantic side--to great effect--but these are clothes for working women, from a series of alterna-suits made of hip-grazing tunics to cozy knits (especially a sleeveless burnt orange turtleneck) that shoppers are bound to snap up--price be damned. Nude, animal-friendly patent pumps underscored the underlying theme of versatility, as did pared-down cocktail options featuring organza overlays and the occasional panel of paillettes.