2010 February 26
Runway Reviews: DSquared2, Blumarine
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It's a lot to handle at 9 a.m.--the S & M undertones, the bondage suits, the two men clad in gold briefs and ensconced behind life-sized plastic tubes. The imagery, including the freight elevator that deposited the models onto the runway, was all very vivid, and in the harsh light of morning, the clothes were a bit trop. But Dean and Dan Caten's creations mostly come out at night, and their customer will have no problem being the sexiest-looking woman in the room come Fall. So maybe she won't brave the crotch-high leather boots, the leather briefs, or the red PVC hoisery. A lean black wool suit with a sumptuous fur panel around the midsection will do just fine. Same with a chainmetal tunic that was shown, cords flinging madly, with those aforementioned boots. A leather suit, doused with chains and worn by Iris, will give Balmain-ites reason to stray. Pencil skirts occasionally unzipped up the back all the way to the danger zone were so narrow as to require baby steps by the models when left fully zipped. It was a black jersey gown, slit to the thigh and decked out in crimson and noir plumes, that elicited the first smattering of applause. The message was tough to miss, and thankfully, there were some great clothes to drive it home.
If fringe is what you're after, then look no further. Anna Molinari's Fall collection for Blumarine was full of so much rock-chic movement and sparkle that whoever wears these looks is guaranteed to be the most-noticed girl in the room. Maybe you're after a motorcycle jacket. Ponyhair? Chocolate brown suede? Python? Black leather with sequins? Pick your poison--they're all decked out in fringe. Sequined animal-print leggings, worn with mismatching tunics, played nicely against all the outerwear options. Chiffon body-con minidresses were decked out with long, flowing trains--and they came in seemingly endless variations. Expect this collection to sell wildly in Moscow and other fashion capitals where the women are fearless and the budgets, inconsequential.