2010 February 15
Runway Reviews: Juan Carlos Obando, Peter Jensen
(NEW YORK) Juan Carlos Obando
Juan Carlos Obando has continued to duck under the radar of the general fashion public, and it’s a great disservice to both. Obando’s Fall 2010 collection was stunning in its simplicity---belted shift dresses, super-narrow seamed trousers, and flawless jackets and coats, all handmade in his Los Angeles studio. “I wanted to throw something out there that had no problem in saying ‘I’m simple and I’m beautiful in being simple. I don’t need to adorn myself, I don’t need to do crazy things,’” explained Obando post-show. “I wanted to frame the woman, I didn’t want to cover her.” His treated wool was primarily used in the collection as neoprene, but the outcome was exactly as he wanted: pieces were cut super-close to the body without being skintight. Obando didn’t abandon the meticulous pleating and detailing he’s impressed his clientelle with in the past—a series of gowns with micro-pleated panels could be a refreshing red carpet option for a Marchesa-loving starlet. The coup that might finally compel fashion editors to give Obando play on their well pages? The designer’s collaboration with George Esquivel, which produced thigh-high spats over Manolo booties.
Peter Jensen showed in New York on Sunday night to a game crowd that included Karen Elson and Zoe Kravitz. Inspired by the schoolgirls from Scottish author Muriel Sparks’ The Prime of Miss Jean Brodie, velvet, classic Mary Janes worn with ankle socks, pleated kilt-style skirts, and even bloomer-esque shorts made for a cutesy Lolita-like collection--almost saccharinely so, at least as far as the styling went. That’s not to say that the pieces on their own won’t be well-received. Quirky shops like Williamsburg boutique Jumelle (which currently stocks Jensen’s collection) will eat up the colorful looks. And with a lighter hand, they’ll even work outside the schoolyard.