2008 January 15
Nina Ricci - Pre-Fall 2008
(NEW YORK) In replacing what has become his signature, the feather, with pearls, Olivier Theyskens moved his Nina Ricci woman forward into a more ladylike mode while continuing to maintain her chic stance. In his pre-fall collection, the delicate pearl-laden necklaces, bracelets, and hair clips effortlessly attached to strands of hair softened up the tougher, harder pieces, like a long leather dress and Mongolian lamb jacket, but also served to perfectly complement the cozy cable-knit sweaters, romantic floral dresses, and suiting--both in pant and skirt form.
Simple suiting done in luxe fabrics ranging from Astrakhan to cashmere, with subtle details like exposed inner linings at the pockets, was a highlight of the collection, while a pair of gorgeous fox furs that were ready for a night out were particularly show-stopping. Speaking of night, for evening, Theyskens kept things simple but still managed to have some fun. A “twisted” fabric effect combined with metallic floral detail made for a standout cocktail dress, as did the colored degradé dresses (topped off lightly with asymmetrically cut satin coats, all of which came belted).
“Thinking of the modern institution that is Nina Ricci, I try not to have a theme that is too precise,” said Theyskens. “Nina Ricci is very Botticelli-like, very watery, airy, this Venus-type.” As for the jewelry, Theyskens explained he is serious about developing the collection and making it an arm of the Nina Ricci brand, starting with fall. “It’s such a natural extension that it’s the perfect next step,” he said.