2007 December 13
Bill Blass - Pre-Fall 2008
(NEW YORK) Peter Som presented a winner of a collection for his first pre-fall designs at Bill Blass since being named creative director of the iconic fashion house in July.
"The Blass woman is all about movement," Som said during a preview at the Blass showroom on Seventh Avenue. "A real sense of ease that's more relaxed than precious, but insouciant at the same time." Translated into designs, the results were a lineup of luxe furs, splendid day-into-evening separates, and subdued evening gowns. Som said he kept the collection tight and focused, a prelude to his first Bill Blass runway show in February, which was evident in flirty and feminine blouses like a chic cellophane velvet number, as well as in the more menswear-inspired looks, such as a duster coat, a long and lean pantsuit paired with a sailor coat, and a stunning sheered mink corduroy stadium coat.
The Americana-esque color palette--"refined reds, whites, and blues," Som said in reference to the Blass heritage--remained subtle, focusing on mostly dark hues with pops of cerise and silver thrown in. Som's signature for his own namesake label was evident, witnessed by a series of sequined and beaded dresses and skirts which were standouts (embroidered overlay on a bold floral print), while those opting for more subtlety will angle toward the feather-accented top and double-breasted skirt with cargo pockets.
"There's also a sense of detail to the collection," Som said, as witnessed by the lace piping and cashmere trim in cardigans and the emphasis on feminine armholes in the pressed bouclé shifts.
For evening, the Blass woman will have plenty of options. For a youthful take that won't alienate the core customer, hammered washed duchess satin gowns--boasting trapeze backs and simple crisscross backs draped with a cowl neck--will do the trick. A white column gown with discreet pockets that featured a twist of fabric at the neckline which created a second effortless panel cascading down the front was both dramatic and--with a bow affixed to the back--just the right amount of saccharine.