Daily Front Row

2007 December 10

Valentino - Pre-Fall 2008

Valentino Pre-Fall 2008
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(NEW YORK) Pre-fall marks Alessandra Facchinetti's much-anticipated design debut since taking the reins at Valentino in September. For her first effort, the former Gucci women's wear designer mixed volume and structured tailoring for her debut collection with the iconic house.

Playing with cuts and proportions, jackets and tops were cropped and voluminous while asymmetrical hemlines provided an interesting detail on jackets and dresses, kept shorter in the front. The color palette was classic and elegant, relying heavily on the basics without being boring: grey, black, ink, taupe, and beige dominated with a small sprinkling of print and color. Tasseled suede bow belts drew attention to the waist while bell sleeves and origami pleats provided intrigue. Tweed suits paid homage to tradition while shorter pants and varying necklines looked toward the future.

Facchinetti varied neck shapes, showing turtleneck dresses, collarless jackets, V-necks, and high scoops. A neutral sheath dress played on gradations of taupe color-blocking for a sweet feminine look, and eveningwear included a mix of cropped jackets and sheer blouses with straight and tulip-bottomed ball skirts.

The collection had a reassuring sense of balance that should assuage fans of the house who fear its future in new design hands. January's couture show will be Mr. Valentino Garavani's last.