2008 July 2
Christian Lacroix - Paris Couture Fall 2008
(PARIS) "We are never very far from the Renaissance," laughed Christian Lacroix backstage before Tuesday's couture show at the Centre Georges Pompidou. But this collection took pomp and circumstance so un-seriously that there was nary a stiff-laced maiden in sight. There's something specifically transportive about Lacroix's very best shows, this one included--the invisible embroidery, the miles of beadwork, the acres of lace. The cumulative effect of all this magnificent excess is that even the most jaded observer forgets that these are, after all, intended to be worn. They just have too much heart to be, technically, inanimate. "My woman is very strong, very aggressive. A little wild, but in a sweet way," explained the designer. Case in point? A short frock in a "makeup" shade of crepe, endowed with a pleated taffeta overskirt with lace edging, worn by Tanya D. There were plenty of satin confections for rollicking party girls, but a series of sinister looks--a boned, black faille jacket and lace cape dress, in particular--offered a critical counterpoint. The show ended with a bridal Vlada, her arms ensconced in tulle and knotted with pink faille. A veil of several meters followed her down the runway, until Lacroix, taking his final bow, raced up and took his place aside her. May we kiss the groom?