2008 September 23

Missoni - Milan Spring 2009

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(MILAN) Some still identify the Missoni phenomenon as a seventies thing, and the spirit was certainly alive in the parade of palazzo pants and punchy prints Angela Missoni proposed for spring. The first looks were innocuous enough--pairings of mixed prints that showed up in high-waisted straight skirts and flouncy silk blouses. Loose Dolman-sleeved shift dresses were belted at the waist, offering practical daywear for those in need. The yellow linen trousers with more legroom than a first class seat on Air France weren't quite as successful, but Missoni is best when it plays with the standards. A mustard wide-legged sleeveless pantsuit got a jolt of India from metallic embroideries and studs, but when the motif appeared in a pink dress, the charm became almost too literal. But the kimono jackets in metallic green were spot-on, utterly practical but endowed with the particular brand of glamour that Missoni owns completely. A bandeau-style belted lurex dress reminded the front row of sunnier days, when life was all flash, all cash. Wisely, Missoni is using its brand recognition to amp up its accessory business, and the oversized totes and clutches in token shades like turquoise and aubergine made quite the splash.