2011 May 13
Patrick McMullan View Gallery
Christopher Street got trunked on Wednesday night as Byrdie Bell hosted a soiree at cute boutique A Man & A Woman for young label NAHM, named for the mixed-up initials its designers, Alexandria Hilfiger (she's ditched Ally, at least professionally) and Nary Manivong. A crowd of Georgia May Jagger, Christian Cota, Timo Weiland, Rebecca Minkoff, Fern Mallis, Jenne Lombardo and Derek Blasberg came dressed apropos in NAHM. The trunk show runs through next Wednesday--and this Saturday afternoon, the duo will be styling at the store, so we asked Manivong for a few styling secrets. Check out the Gallery for more party pics.
What's the NAHM styling approach?
It's definitely going to be pretty organic, and it's all about the shirtdress. Our whole collection is based on it!
Why style in-store?
It’s the starting point to see who’s grabbing what off the hangers, and what the process is behind that. I think we'll have a better idea of what works and what we'll do for our next collection as a result.
What's the feedback been like so far?
We'll probably know more after the trunk show! Some of our friends are placing orders, which is really exciting.
Any must-try items yet?
Our mesh pieces have been our hotcakes so far, so that's going to be our signature core piece from here on out.
2011 May 13
Patrick McMullan View Gallery
Chic's crush on Lulu Frost's Lisa Salzer is not exactly a secret—she's sweet, she's pretty, she's talented. Swoon!
Birthplace: Syosset, NY
Current abode: New York, NY
Hours you sleet: 5-6
Hours you'd like to sleep: 8-10
Street of choice: Perry
Word: "Amazon (for amazing)."
Drink: Gin & tonic
Body part: "Guys' arms."
How much does your cleaning lady charge per visit? "$60—and it's my cleaning fellow. actually!"
Tap or sparkling? Tap
Dog or cat? See above
Exercise: "The Tracy Anderson Method and running."
First fashion show: Baby Phat.
Greatest Expenditure: "Lanvin dresses."
Escape plan: "A ranch in Montana."
Will you watch the last episode of Oprah? "Sadly, I can't. I'll be at work and don't have TiVO."
Illicit crush: Ed Burns
What make you jealous? "I try not to acknowledge those toxic thoughts."
Monthly drying cleaning bill: "A couple hundred."
2011 May 12
Three heads are better than one! In the latest issue of V, Gaga graces the glossy, transforming into one of her "Little Monsters." The corsetted covergirl was styled for The Asian Issue by Nicola Formichetti and shot by famed fash-photogs Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin. Limited-edition hard copies will be available for fans—and 10 percent of proceeds will benefit Japan Relief. Check out VMagazine.com for a behind-the-scenes b-roll of the shoot!
2011 May 12
Patrick McMullan View Gallery
This week, accessories maven Colette Malouf is featuring her coif-crowning pieces front and center on Fifth Avenue in a window nook of Henri Bendel. Chic popped in as Malouf was mid-French twist tutorial on a smattering of enchanted customers. Her spring collection, wrought with undulating wire panels, sprinklings of pearls and other under-the-sea inflected creations, will be at Bendel's until May 16, and the designer herself will be popping in to work her magic. Check out the Gallery for all of Colette's chic and easy how-to's!
You're quite literally in Bendel's windows. How're you feeling? Exposed? Elated?
I feel like I grew up with Bendel's; it's the first place I came with my Malouf Poof, and I was here every day showing people how to do their hair. Here I am 24 years later, doing the same thing.
Have you styled much since then?
Oh, yes! I'm always doing hair at my sample sales. There are so many variables: face shape, texture, thickness, cut, personal style... And the weather! That, too.
What about your own hairstyle trials and tribulations?
Things got pretty crazy in the '80s. When I was in college, I used to go for any cut, literally. I’d let them do whatever what they wanted! For a while, I had hair that was really, really, short in the back and really big volume on top! It was embarrassing. Another time, a hairstylist gave me a cut that looked like these bowl cuts worn by specific group of people who live in the Amazon. I’ve done it all.
Any intereresting tress tales from day one of your return to hands-on styling in Bendel's?
One challenge was layered Asian hair, with an onion cut. I got it into a conical French twist, and you’d never know she had short, layered hair. I started with an elastic, I made a ponytail in the center of the head and then twisted the hair around and put a comb in. A girl with long hair that almost reached her knees came in earlier today - we put it up in a serpent twist. It was just unbelievable, and totally shocking. I got it all up in one hairpin!
2011 May 12
Carlos Campos designs' have been worn by Justin Timberlake, Ethan Hawke and the Scissor Sisters, but what do we really know about the designer who won the Fashion Group's International Rising Star award for best menswear design in 2009? Clearly, not enough:
Birthplace: El Pregreso, Honduras
Current abode: New York
Hours you sleep: 5
Hours you'd like to sleep: "I am working on sleeping 3. Sleeping is just a waste of time."
Street of choice: Orchard Street
Favorite foreign word: Pronto!
Drink: "My dear friend, Innacio Carballido, owner of Casa Mezcal in the Lower East Side, makes the best cucumber margaritas!"
Favorite recent magazine article: "The Picture Subjects Talk Back," by Cathy Horyn about Bill Cunningham. It was published a long time ago in The New York Times, but I just read it."
Body part: "Somehow, my left hand is more sexy them my right one."
Showtune: "Cee Lo's Forget You with Gwyneth Paltrow on Glee"
Snack: "Sun dried tomato pita bread and hummus"
How much does your cleaning woman or man charge per visit? "I do my own!"
Tap or sparkling? "Sparkling, especially when I'm hungry."
Exercise: "I play soccer once a month. Does that count?"
Greatest expenditure: "All the weeklies—when I'm traveling."
Escape plan: "Lady Gaga's glowing egg."
Illicit crush: Angelina Jolie
What make you jealous? "A guy named Brad Pitt...he has kids with my crush."
Monthly drying cleaning bill: "$92. Will you pay for it this month?"
2011 May 11
Photo Courtesy of Interview View Gallery
The May issue of Interview (out now) features a fascinating chat with Valentino's current designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli, who sat down with Giancarlo Giammetti, the original president of the house (and Mr. Valentino's longtime bestie).
On realizing they could design for Valentino:
GIAMMETTI: When did you realize, 'Maybe I could do that?'
CHIURI: Frankly, when they offered us the job two and a half years ago. I was very scared, but not of the work—meaning, designing the collections. Personally what most concerned me was having to cope with the visibility. That really frightened me because everyone underestimated Valentino’s poise and ability to keep his cool.
PICCIOLI: It all happened very quickly. I had told my wife about it that day. When I received confirmation that evening, I was in Paris and I had to call home and also tell my mother. Who knows what she would have thought if she saw my picture in the papers the next day? When I told my mother that Alessandra [Facchinetti] was leaving and that they offered us the creative directorship position, my mother said, “You didn’t accept it, did you? Because if you do, you won’t see your children anymore.” I come from a family that isn’t ambitious and where other things are considered more important. But, of course, this was too great an opportunity, and I couldn’t say no.
On being at the service of the brand:
GIAMMETTI: Let’s return for a moment to what you said about being at the service of the brand and not working for yourselves. The day after your show in Paris, there was an article by Ms. Suzy Menkes, who I greatly admire but who must have gotten up on the wrong side of the bed when she wrote it, because she said that the new collection lacks surprise. She said it was too safe and too close to the brand. Now, many of the journalists who write these things are the same people who complained when [John] Galliano’s or [Alexander] McQueen’s collections weren’t commercial enough. These fashion journalists are never satisfied. So how do you avoid being influenced by them?
PICCIOLI: You do analyze what you do and try to understand how others see you, but you do it from the right perspective and distance. We really admire Suzy Menkes because she always has an interesting point of view, and from her point of view, I don’t think what she said about us was so terrible. Today we believe that fashion needs consistency, so it wasn’t the right time for us to do a wild and crazy collection.
GIAMMETTI: Perhaps I’m slightly more skeptical and cynical. Unfortunately, the press—like many other sectors—wields such power today that if people aren’t strong enough, they tend to let themselves be influenced too much. I was able to stop Valentino from reading the newspapers and only tell him what they wrote. Perhaps Valentino was even more sensitive than you, but he was also more reactive than you, because he would have told those journalists to go to hell and would have banned them—as I did many times.
On the value of fashion shows nowadays:
GIAMMETTI: What about the runway show? What good is a fashion show today?
PICCIOLI: A fashion show is good if the clothes last for more than six months, because if they’re boring or forgetful or crazy, then they’ll never hit the stores.
GIAMMETTI: Again, I’m more skeptical. Today, in this confusion where the Internet reigns, we saw your collection not the day after, but three hours after it appeared on the catwalk. Does the desire that fashion creates really last six months until the clothes are in stores? Does it last four months even? There is such a saturation of these things that I wonder if Tom Ford isn’t right not to do runway shows and to show his clothes in the magazines, because that’s what people want and where they remember them.
CHIURI: Well, he certainly found an innovative way to present his collection. But I think the real problem is that there is a saturation of brands that have no reason to exist. There are so many brands during Fashion Week that are clearly uninteresting.
PICCIOLI: But what Tom Ford is doing is also a form of packaging. It’s not just the fashion show—it’s a negation of the system used to communicate with the system. It’s another way to present your work.
GIAMMETTI: He’s a new phenomenon. He sells himself, and people buy things because he tells them to.
PICCIOLI: That’s packaging, though.
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