2010 June 11
(SAO PAULO) Triton
Paris Hilton played runway guest of honor, bouncing down the catwalk and eliciting cheers, lots of camera phone snaps, and an almost-standing ovation. Clearly, this brand is intended for girly-girls. Heiress aside (though it was quite distracting, though surely intentionally), the collection had lots for les filles to love: flippy circle skirts, tiered dresses, a mix of textures like lace, eyelet, and paillettes. And though a few military touches were presumably intended to tone down the girlyness, the true colors of the collection (sparkles and unicorns) shone through.
It may seem odd to describe a quintessentially Brazilian brand as all-American, but Iodice´s Spring 2011 collection was just that, opening with an eyelet wrap dress perfect for a July 4th barbecue. (They barbecue in Brazil as well, but stick with us here.) Every model wore visors, and the sporty theme was developed by nautical stripes and plenty of chino. But designer Valdemar Iodice, who referenced "a woman coming out of the water" as his inspiration, didn't present a simple, Gap-ish array. Sumptuous suede, laser-cut to mimic eyelet, was an impressive detail, as were buttery black leather separates that kept their sweet side intact with scalloped edging. Finally, a lineup of draped jersey dresses were at once body-con and comfy---perfect for an escape to the Cape.
Arguably the most universally-known of the SPFW designers, the Brazilian Alexandre Herchcovitch shows in both New York (for the exposure) and Sao Paulo (for the hometown experience). Take note, NY-based Herchcovitch fans: this collection is the same you'll see in September. The show started on a colorful note: models in bright little shift dresses in peach, green, coral, blue. In fact, the entire look was monochromatic, from the frocks to the lipstick to the round Mykita shades to the enormous platforms balancing precariously on a pin-thin heel. As the show progressed, the hues began to intermingle into a graphic, almost tetris-like pattern, which became a paint-splatter print, which became bright ombres in shiny satin. They won't be easy to wear---everything was super-structured, with wide shoulders or sculpted and pleated details---but they're certainly statement pieces.
Osklen started out as a surf line, so the "experience of deep-sea diving" inspiration cited in the show notes came as no surprise. Blue was the only color presented, from ultra-pale tie dyes to navy. Draped, body-con dresses will be easy to wear from the city to the beach---if a pair of paillette-encrusted harem pants (evoking fish scales) were a bit trickier. But even if creative director Oskar Mehtsavaht was a bit heavy-handed with his oceanic theme (several models wore scuba-style goggles around their necks, and one sported a silver fin), there were plenty of more wearable elements to be taken from the collection. Treatments like laser-cutting, corrosion of fabrics, and overdyeing made for unique details on easy jersey pieces.
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