2010 February 13

Runway Reviews: Preen, Doo.Ri

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(NEW YORK) Preen
Preen’s Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi have always mixed masculine and feminine masterfully—even their frilliest frocks have an element of toughness—but never before have they done it so literally. For Fall 2010, the duo went so far as to employ Savile Row tailors Gieves and Hawkes for a gorgeously-constructed collection that will still give girly types what they crave. “We thought, the Preen girl has great party dresses, she has her Sunday clothes—let’s give her workwear as well,” said Thornton post-show. Of course, the oversize blazers and flawless trousers were balanced with a bright floral print (inspired by a Peter Saville image) and lingerie styling. Dresses fastened bra-like in the back, and often featured corset-esque takes on Preen’s signature paneling. Power businesswoman, check. Party girl, check.

Here’s hoping Doo-Ri Chung’s clients have something to celebrate. The typically understated designer sent out a jubilant collection for Fall 2010. Her signature draped basics, from bright tunics and dresses to sleek trousers and suiting tweaked with draped hems, came bedazzled with generous sprinklings of sequins. Even her models’ lips were coated in blue glitter. Leggings liquified down the sides...even sparkle-free moto jackets and blazers came in a shade of iridescent blue. The sequins and shine were a bit aggressive at times, but Chung tempered the party-girl pieces with a series of suede jersey looks to close the show--just as much movement, not quite as much flash. 

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