2010 March 12
SWAN View Gallery
(NEW YORK) After sitting through hundreds of shows and attending dozens of presentations, it’s time to once again narrow down The Daily’s top collections of the season. Using our very scientific ratings system (each editorial staff member ranked their top 10, assigning a point value to each placement), we’ve come up with our top 10. We would like to mention the five shows that just narrowly missed our list--Altuzarra, Rodarte, MaxMara, Prada, Viktor & Rolf, and Preen, in that order--but here are the collections that really rocked our Fall 2010 world:
1. Marc Jacobs
From elegant wool overcoats to nipped-and-tucked day dresses, Jacobs' take on Fall was full of the kind of classics that first interested Bernard Arnault back in the '90s. They've never been more welcome. With each look stronger than the last---and a fabulously elegant coterie of accessories (fur bags compris) that will put the Italian and French masters to shame---Jacobs dominated New York as only he can do.
2. Louis Vuitton
Just weeks after his New York triumph, Jacobs made a case for fashion world domination with a romantic, soft, and unforgettable showing at Vuitton. He summoned an impressive delegation of supermodels like Elle Macpherson, Adriana Lima, and Laetitia Casta to swoon his captive audience at the Louvre. His full-bodied (and full-breasted!) beauties showcased an amazing array of full skirts, corsets, and gowns in what felt like a surreal scene from a 1950’s MGM masterpiece.
3. Burberry Prorsum
If it seems odd to be desperate for winter to arrive, you probably didn’t catch Christopher Bailey’s Fall 2010 Burberry show. A parade of coats and jackets, each more covetable than the next, included inside-out shearling moto-jackets, long military styles in army green, navy blue, black, coats that zipped off at the middle for a two-in-one style, and a show-stopping Bordeaux number with fur spilling from the inside and collar. Who could choose just one?
4. Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen’s final collection cemented the notion that he was unrelentingly original and a true mastermind of his time. While the collection was 80 percent finished at the time of his death, Sarah Burton, who worked alongside McQueen, stepped in to complete his vision in time for the showing. The private, intimate presentation was quiet and visually arresting all at once, and McQueen’s collection called on the art of the Dark Ages, honing in on its stately beauty. While the occasion was somber and hushed, the designs were positively resplendent, and highlighted a designer’s accomplished and storied body of work.
5. Bottega Veneta
It's good to be Tomas Maier. His 9 a.m. show for Bottega Veneta featured gratis cappucino made to order, delectable pastries, and the most luxurious clothes to come out of Milan. The mensweary leather suits and pseudo-draped dresses addressed the many ways women are living their lives---and the different outfits they assume when doing so. The scarab baubles were just as strong as the crop of woven bags. The palette of red, carnation, black, navy, and chestnut was brilliantly conceived. And above all, Maier made the kind of clothes that women want to buy rightthisveryminute. Hurry up and go into production already!
6. Emilio Pucci
Dundas, Dundas, Dundas! This is one sexy designer---and not only because he looks so splendid at the end of the runway. Maybe it was the high-waisted suede flares, maybe it was the lethally short minifrocks, but this collection brought Milan to its knees. Even after eleven hours of shows, Dundas' take on Pucci reinvigorated a weary fashion world. Has there been a hotter (and hauter) revival in the last five years?
Some critics complain that Christophe Decarnin is one-note in his aggressive pursuit of rocker chic, but chicsters and retailers know better. After all, even at over a thousand dollars for a t-shirt, Decarnin's Balmain is selling faster than they can stock it. For Fall, he went slightly baroque-o-co, enlisting lamé and brocades and gold braid and even leopard print to steer fashion in a new direction. There will be imitators--but don't expect them to do it nearly this well.
8. Dries Van Noten
Proof that fashion need not be super-directional to be utterly perfect. Van Noten’s lineup was of everyday clothes that everyday women could wear, and the result was far from boring. Yes, you’ve seen army drab pants before, you’ve seen a camel coat, a trench dress, and gray trousers many times—but this collection’s genius was in its quiet confidence and subtly luxurious finish. When so many shows are about just that—the show—Van Noten offered a collection begging to be worn for years to come.
9. Haider Ackermann
Intricate and versatile, Haider Ackermann delivered a collection that was as commercially viable as it was innovative. Leather separates and sharply-placed zippers allowed for pieces to be manipulated and worn multiple ways, many promising to offer an array of changing silhouettes. Darkly sculptural, Ackermann offered his crowd-pleasing leather leggings, heavy, floor-grazing capes and high slits (with the option of transforming into a more demure look with a single zip). In many ways, Ackermann left the ball in the consumer’s court, allowing them to determine just how they wish to wear these striking pieces.
Will the furry boot be the boot of Fall/Winter 2010? It remains to be seen, but if the potentially-ubiquitous clog is any indication, The Daily's vote is oui. Like it or hate it, Lagerfeld's latest effort never fails to provoke, and he always makes memories in the process. Admit it---you're still lusting after those tweed coats paired with a super-lean botte. And the iceberg, the iceberg! It's sink or swim these days, darlings--and surely you know that the Kaiser is positively thriving.
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